Into the Arctic Circle

Thursday 7 August

An "at sea" day as we crossed into the Arctic Circle around 9.30am with about 350 nautical miles to Tromso, our next port.  Expect to have no darkness tonight, if not the midnight sun.

The ship has recognised Australia's National Day of Mourning to honour victims of flight MH17.

Weather is fine as I record these notes sitting on our verandah - light clothes and tracksuit top. Colder tomorrow.  At sea days are no less busy, but more time to relax over breakfast and lunch and to choose activities from the many available.  Have taken two more Windows 8.1 classes this morning and a briefing on our next two ports.  Shortly to head out for a few laps of the Promenade Deck - never got there!!!

The Rotterdam is a beautiful ship, although now 17 years old.  780ft long, 106ft wide, 10 decks, 1316 passengers and 593 crew.  Our verandah cabin is mid-ship and very quiet.  The sea has been amazingly flat with minimal wind - none of those visions of the wild North Sea seem imaginable at present. The weather has been very mild to date - the first need for a light top over a shirt has been today. We have also been free of other cruise ships to date, so nowhere has been crowded. 

The routine for the evening will be our standard 7.15pm for cocktails, 8pm for dinner and 10.30pm for show - and we never tire of it, but some of us need to train!!

Last day Abu Dhabi and on the way home

Friday 22 August

Post breakfast trip to World Trade Centre Mall and Souk.  Friday is the beginning of the weekend and with the local propensity toward night shopping we were not expecting crowds.  How right we were.  The Mall is another big one, but with numerically less, but more upmarket, shops than Marina Mall.  Apart from us, the sales staff, and big numbers of cleaning and security staff, the place was empty.

Once again, big wide passages, spotlessly clean, many toilets and seats.No different at the adjacent very modern souk (and can you imagine a middle eastern market where the carpets are on display but no one is there to sell them - well here it is!!!!!  Tonight both places will be packed.

Back to Jumeriah for time by the pool - got a 4pm checkout but not the 6pm I would have preferred.  After check out, read the papers overlooking the pools and sea before a cab to airport.

Jumeriah was an excellent (read "grand" hotel), very well positioned, many, many smiling helpful staff and with excellent facilities.  So much marble you could not imagine, a very big bedroom (bed more than 6 feet wide) and a bathroom half as big as the bedroom (and with full width floor to ceiling window). 

Abu Dhabi is a great 2 or 3 night stopover at this time of the year but you have to enjoy the heat outside.  I need to comment on the taxis as they are such a contrast to Melbourne.  Each car is checked for cleanliness, inside and out before each shift, the drivers are finely uniformed (and checked out before shift), all taxis are metered and they are cheap ($22 for our 36km ride to the airport - but of course petrol is less than half our price).  We used taxis every day as the city is very widely spread and walking any reasonable distance at this time of the year in the heat is not realistic.

I am on a 'winner" with Etihad auctions having been advised yesterday that I was successful with another Business Class bid (at the price I bid, there was a better than even chance).  Not sure if other airlines do this,  but all the "yield" managers will all be onto it soon - no more complimentary upgrades, big dollars for every seat upgrade!!!  One of us thinks it well worthwhile, with personal attention from the time the taxi pulls up, no luggage to manage from the taxi, dedicated terminal entry, fast track immigration and security etc, etc, etc - and now writing this from the lounge.  Not sure who the check in rep thought I was but he called me "Sir Norman" - perhaps Tony Abbot has been at work in our absence!!!

Home tomorrow.

Abu Dhabi

Thursday 21 August

Another 40C+ day and I am surprised that day time winter temperatures are as low as 12 - 15C.  Laps of each of the two levels of exclusive stores after breakfast (how about a hand made, gold inlaid, tablet for just $21,000US - no buyer queue!!!).

Up to Observation Deck 360 (74th floor on one of the five towers of this complex) for a bird's eye view of Abu Dhabi and a coffee.  There is a significant sun haze (probably exacerbated by dust and sand) which distracts from an otherwise spectacular view.  Obviously, it also impacts on photos.

Time around the pools on one of the huge shaded lounges and in the cooling pool waters.  I think they must recirculate the pool water via iced pipes as the pool is about 8 degrees cooler than the beach.  As well as being very warm, the sea water is extremely salty and floating is a breeze.  Did a bit of reading, including China Daily where I noted that the Chinese government has banned outdoor BBQ's irrespective of whether they are for profit, or where they are located (13, 900 cases investigated in the first 7 months).

Late afternoon off to the Grand Mosque about 15km away.  Very pleasant drive along 4 and 5 lane, one way, roads - very clean with a lot of green wedges and beaches.  Absolutely spectacular Mosque covering more than 15,000 square metres (about 65% open air courtyard), has a capacity for 41,000 worshipers, 82 domes, more than 1, 000 columns and the world's largest hand knotted carpet - as well as extensive reflecting pools and gardens.  Pat Initially thought the required hijab was "cooling", but changed her mind after 45 minutes.

Came back via Emirates Palace Hotel.  Jumeriah is luxurious, but Emirates Palace is pretty well indescribable - it is rolled gold.  All the time we were there it felt like we would be thrown out as "not worthy".  Something to behold!!!

Into Abu Dhabi

Wednesday 20 August

We eventually got off the ground close to 7pm yesterday and with the time zone change were on the tarmac in Abu Dhabi sometime after 3am.  Immigration, a long wait for one case, a 30 minute taxi ride at 100km/hour and check in, saw us hit the sack just on 5am.

Corner room overlooking sea and city on 50th floor of this extravagant hotel- Jumeriah at Etihad Towers.  Everything is push button - drapes, maid service etc, etc and all the toileteries are in the shape of the hotel's towers.  10.30am breakfast in preparation for a relaxing day - and relaxing it has been.

Within the Hotel there is a two level mall entirely made up of all the luxury brands.  They are all here about 50 of them (together with a Waitrose supermarket).  The Cartier store has a frontage of almost 60m.  Have not seen a customer in any of the big name stores - but with their prices, they probably only need a couple of sales per week.

Time around the pools (3, plus private beach) this afternoon.  Not many around as it is a quiet period, so no competition for sunbeds etc - and complimentary coolers.  Temperature around 40C, but main pool is well shaded.

Early evening to Marina Mall about 1.8km away but after Pat's experience of walking the Corniche in Doha last year, walking was so not an option!!!  Very big Mall with hundreds of shops over a very big and pristine complex.  Toilets everywhere and even seats for male shoppers.  Very strong customer service culture.  Ate in a "Parisian" cafe overlooking an ice skating rink and back by taxi for a "catch up night".

Like Doha,  Abu Dhabi is an ongoing development, but on a much bigger scale.  The airport had massive road plant (new runway?) working at 4am this morning.  Roadworks too, as well as building construction seems to be a 24/7 activity- and of course, all of this (and hotel services) is undertaken by expatriate workers.  One apparent difference is that Doha was lit like a Christmas tree, whereas Abu Dhabi does not seem so brightly lit - perhaps it just seems that way because it is so much bigger.
It is great to have the feet up for a couple of days.

Not quite the au revoir planned

Tuesday 19 August

Flight confirmation from Etihad, transfer booked for 8am, bags packed and an early night.   A little off the rails when 6am mistaken for 7am and further off the rails with an overnight email from Etihad advising 5 hour delay - quick arrangement to reschedule transfer.

Make the most of extra time in Paris, so walk via St Germaine thru Sorbonne and university campuses for breakfast on edge of Pantheon (dome under canvas while renovations being undertaken).  On to Luxembourg Palace and gardens on a beautiful cloudless Paris morning. At 10am, in the sunshine and without crowds, this has to be the best and most relaxing spot in Paris.  Back via the surrounding streets and St Sulpice Cathedral.  Everywhere you walk there is something that turns your head - and most don't make the maps.  Returning via Notre Dame,  the queues are as long as yesterday (both close to 100m at 11am).

Just a little on Paris:
Don't go if you are looking for a pristine city, but what you get is something to excite you at every turn - and look up, not down!;
Don't believe that Paris closes down for August, it certainly does not for tourism (95%+ of shops and cafes are open);
The locks on bridges craze has reached its zenith here - no wonder bridges are falling down.  The souvenir sellers on the left bank even sell them - fortunately, the more intellectual right bank has not followed suit;
There are some interesting beggars in Paris - most seem to have mobiles, I saw one who promoted his own facebook page, and the big majority seem to have dogs (having passed through two pet shops yesterday, I can tell you that the cheapest "mutts" in Paris will set you back $1000+, with breeding, the price sky rockets);
Apart from the two "petitioners" when we transferred stations on our way to Rotterdam, we never saw even a hint of annoyance of any sort - but you still need to be "alert but not alarmed".

Sorry,  I digress!!!

12 noon transfer to airport for our delayed flight thinking we would be first to check in.  In fact, it seems, almost last because most did not receive the "delayed" message.  Checked in via the Diamond First Class check in, but alas no good news.  The flight may be delayed even more because the incoming flight had been turned around to Abu Dhabi due to "mechanical problems" - €52 vouchers!!!!

Uh oh, just got the news of a further two hour delay (and the offer of more food vouchers - but how much can you eat and drink).   Stories to tell ............ but the editor in chief has precluded publication!!!!!!

Anyway, there is entertainment here!!!!

Paris Again

Monday 18 August

Headed off to St Germaine and Latin districts this morning with breakfast on the way.  Spent walking time along the streets (too early for shops as most don't open before 11am).  Every corner, every street has something and all the food shops were receiving stock, so a lot of fruit & vegetables in the streets.

Met up with Marie and Mary Emerson at 11am near Notre Dame (long queues), quick walk to our hotel and then Metro to Lafayette for shopping time for the women.  I intended to tour Opera Garnier but my patience did not cope with the queues, so I did what I love best in Paris- walked more streets.  While waiting for the women, saw a big police operation on the move - 6 motorbikes, 7 cars and 2 big wagons, all with sirens screaming.  Late today we heard there had been a 250,000 Euro robbery on a Saudi prince's cavalcade. 

Had lunch at a restaurant adjacent to Opera Garnier.   Very pleasant on the street dining on a good day of 21C (not the forecast showers).  Glad we ate outside as, having seen the extravagence of the inside, I am not sure I could have paid the inside prices.  Set Marie and Mary on the Metro to return to their river cruise boat and we returned to Pont Neuf, walked to, and around the Louvre, to top of Jardin de Tuileries and then home via Rue Rivoli and the "right bank" - and past Notre Dame, where the queues were as long as they had been 6 hours earlier.  Another day with 8 hours on the move ended with a last french onion soup, a last Berthillon ice cream, a lap of I'lle St Louis and an early crash.  Last night in Paris - and worn out!!!!!  Au revoir Paris!!!!!!

More Paris

Sunday 17 August

Change of plan for the day.  Decided we needed more time in Paris and had seen plenty of chateaux in the Loire Valley, so moved away from the bike tour to Versailles.

Breakfast at Cafe St Regis (an old favourite - but now dropped off a bit).  Walking across Pont Marie it seemed like the swim leg of a small triathlon in the Seine.  Then Metro to Sentier to experience Rue Montorgueil (referenced in a couple of "living in Paris" books we have read recently).  Nice and quiet on a Sunday morning - but local shops, cafes and market stalls where the locals hang out.  As always, many magnificent buildings and statues with quite a bit of restoration work proceeding - but a lot more needed.

Wander then toward Palais Royal via Galleries Vivienne and surrounding streets.   Apart from cafes, shops closed because it's Sunday.   Through Palais Royal and its gardens and up Avenue de Opera to Opera Garnier and Rue Haussmann to Galleries Lafayette and Printempts but Pat had to do with the windows (thank heaven for Sunday in Europe!!).  Onward to the Champs Elysees and a late lunch in one of the "pay for position" restaurants on the "Champs"  (value for money?? - but we were seen!!).

Shopping time for Pat, but the Champs Elysees is drowning in people (queues to get into YSL, a Thai wedding, even three Ferraris to test drive - very popular with the middle easterners) and it's not the sort of shopping that Pat enjoys (how lucky am I??).  It is  amazing how the Tour de France riders race on the Champs Elysees with its poor surface, exposed cobble stones and cracks that often seem wider than the riders narrow tyres.  On to Grand Palais and then, just before 4pm we crashed (after walking 10km+) so Metro home for feet up.  We have now had four Metro rides for a total waiting time of less than 7 minutes (on a Saturday and Sunday!!!).

Went to a wonderful Orchestral concert (Vivaldi Four Seasons) last night at Saint le Chapelle.  Lucky to get walk up tickets as there were only a handful of spare seats.  Saint le Chapelle was an amazing venue - 180 degrees surrounded by 12m high stained glass windows and with good light coming through for first half hour.

Paris!!!!!!!

Saturday 16 August

On time disembarkation in Rotterdam and taxi to Central station.  You know you are back in the Netherlands when you see the bikes.   There must be 5000 at the station at 9am on a Saturday morning.  Two years ago when we were here, the station was a construction site, now it is a magnificent new city asset and even has upmartket shops.   The only downside was the first class lounge did not open until our departure time.

Just a little over 2.5 hours, and some Burgundy wine, and we are at Paris Nord.  Thalys booked a taxi for us, driver waiting at end of platform, took Pat's case and delivered us to Hotel St Louis en Isle - and carried cases to the lobby.  We have memories of a less glorious arrival three years ago, much trailing of cases across cobblestones, a transfer to the Metro, a flirtatious ticket seller, many, many stairs and a lot of walking!!!!

Arriving on I'lle St Louis again felt like being home - it has to be the best residential location in Paris, just 300m to Notre Dame.  The whole of Paris is absolutely buzzing - sure, there are things you need to ignore (beggars, street people, dog rocks, the occasional waft of urine and the street rubbish by afternoon) but the architecture and "life" are like no other city.  You would not want to live here, but one week every year would be treasured.  Beautiful sunny day and people everywhere.

Strolled up to Bastille and a short Metro ride (obligatory pianno accordionist) to meet guide for a walk with Discover Walks through the Marais district - cosmopolitan, arty, gay and jewish.  Local young lady who studied and lives in the Marais and took us behind the scenes to parks, palaces, apartments of the rich and famous, monuments and passages, finishing near Hotel de Ville.  Walked home but had to steer around the late aftrnoon queues for Berthillon ice cream and creperies.  In addition to the original, there seems to be about five new Berthillon outlets on I'lle St Louis - everyone of them with a 20m queue.

Feet up for a while before heading out again (and taking the opportunity for something of a fasting day after 14 days of gluttony on the ship).   Through I'lle de Citie and a number of its buildings, including Paris' original hospital dating from the 8th century.   9pm cruise (into the twilight) on the Seine - at 10 euro, this has to be the best value ever.  Glorious night (had there been more boats out, they would need to have installed traffic lights).  Tens of thousands out on the water on boats, walking, sitting on the river banks, eating, dancing at a number of crowd filled spots along the river and plenty of noise.  By 11pm, our island is deserted with the masses having retreated for the night.

South to Rotterdam

Friday 15 August

Into the North Sea as we head back to Rotterdam and disembarkation tomorrow morning.  The North Sea is still very flat, but in the 12 days since we cruised up, the daylight hours have receded from 22+ (including twilight) to about 18 - indicating how quickly the "day time" shorterns.  It's hard to imagine what it would be like living in 24 hour darkness for 2 to 3 months every year.

Norway is a wealthy country but has very high taxes and is very high cost (petrol just on $3 per litre and coffee close to $10 a cup).  On the other hand, it has a very strong welfare system and very generous employment conditions.  It also has the third oldest constitution in the world - behind San Marino and the USA.  Its scenery is just stunning and its people seem to enjoy a very comfortable lifestyle.

Into the washing this morning and found that I could multi task ie have breakfast while the machine did it!!  The clear cruising conditions have everybody out - library is full, classes are full and the seafood lunch even attracted a queue.  The first time the ship has felt full.

Been a little concerned about Ted from our dinner table as we have not seen him for a few days (when he said he was not feeling well) - he does not appear to be a healthy 77 year old, but it seemd he is ok and sticking to his cabin.

Packing has to be done for 1am collection and just one dinner and show to go.  We are scheduled for 7.30am disembarkation, so it won't be a big night of sleep.

Sailed past many North Sea oil and gas platforms during the day and we had Ted back for our last dinner.   We had a good group on our table and all got on well. The last night bombe alaska spectacular was probably our best ever.  Our final show was a dancing with the stars spectacular - 6 passengers with partners from the ship's dancers.   Interestingly, I was not invited to feature!!!

Bergen

Thursday 14 August

Berthed on time at Bergen and for the first time we have other cruise ships to compete with - mega ships, MSC Orchestra and one other which both swamp us in size and numbers.

Bergen has a population of just on 260,000 of Norway's near 5 million people.  It was originally known as Bryggen and was Norway's capital and largest city.  It is the country's largest port and lies in the centre of seven mountains.  It's rise to prominence was based on its dry cod trade during the early 12th century.  Bergen is a very wet city - it rains around 250 days per year and its record run of consecutive wet days is 80.  Guess what ........... we have had a 22C day of clear blue sky. Interestingly, the city has a retirement home for seafarers funded by a tax on all boats coming into its harbour.

A quick familiarisation tour on the Hop On Hop Off bus, to the fish market (nothing special - but whale meat for sale) and up through the City Park to the library for an email catch up and then completion of the bus loop.  Had to queue for the funicular to the top of Mt Floyen - very steep and with very modern cars (original was wooden).  Great views down to, and across, the harbour from the mountain's very big parklands.  No queue on the way down.

Wander around the old wharf section of Bryggen which features Hanseatic commercial buildings dating back to the 15th century - although burned down a number of times, rebuilt and restored.  Back to our ship for our last embarkation before setting sail for Rotterdam.

Wonderful cruising out of Bergen, in the sunshine on our balcony, and with the binoculars getting a good workout as they have most days.  Bergen is a very spread out city, very colourful housing (big houses with lots of green belts), many small islands and it seems just about everyone has water views.  I think we struck Bergen on a day on which it really shined.

Molde

Tuesday 12 August

Berthed 80M from main street and 200M from centre of town.  Very pleasant weather.  Molde is known as the "town of roses," and is the administrative and cultural centre for the county of More og Romsdal.  An early walk to Town Hall and Cathedral.  Town Hall has a rooftop rose garden and the Cathedral has a freestanding 50ft bell tower.

Then off to tourist office to check out bus for Atlantic Ocean Road.  A spectacular 50 minute drive each way through a mountain tunnel, alongand between fjords, over causeways and bridges connecting islands (10,000 of Norway's islands must be in this area).  A wander around a very new boardwalk made of recyclables and particularly enjoyable before our return.

Time in the Moldes beautiful new library to catch up with emails and then a quick lunch before taking the self guided walk along the foreshore past some very pleasant new buildings, including Aker Stadium (wouldn't he love it! !).  Then up the hill to a viewpoint and open air museum and back down to town via some beautiful homes.

It was in Molde that King Haakon and Prince Olav sougt shelter while being hunted by the German occupying forces.  The town appears prosperous and is a stunningly beautiful mix of old and new and on a fjord harbour.  If you wanted to jump ship somewhere, this would be the place to do it!!!

Geiranger

Wednesday 13 August

Just when you think it can't get any more spectacular, you arrive in Geiranger.  75 miles from the sea and at the end of an "S" bend in the mighty Geirangerfjord, which makes it seem that you are encircled by mountains rising more than 1600m straight out of the emerald green water.  Blows your mind!!!

Tender 400m to shore with a bit of drizzle as we head off in a mini Hop On Hop Off bus to travel the switchbacks to Flydalsjuvet and Eagle Road viewpoints - each an incredibly steep 500m almost directly above the fjord.  Stunning views.  Sky clears quite quickly with even some sunshine.

Geiranger is a very small tourist village at the head of the Geirangerfjord and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2005.  140 cruise ships visit from May to September - but we are the only one in until just before 2pm.  Walk around the small town with its camping grounds full of big camper vans (how they drive them on the narrowest of tightly winding and steep roads amazes me), tents, motorbikes and hikers.  Head to base of waterfall and then around the head of the fjord, past herd of goats and village homes.

Tender back to ship for some feet up and leisurely cruising back out of the fjord.

(Blog for Molde has locked up and cannot access or post - working on it!!!!

Honningsvag, North Cape and a lucky break

Saturday 9 August

Early morning arrival in to Honningsvag, one of the northernmost "cities" of the world.  Small port town dating back 10,000 years which thrives on its fishing industry aided by its location on the ice free Barents Sea.  Some drizzle does not bode well, but fairly quickly disappears - cold, but no wind, and we are well prepared.

With the exception of one chapel, the whole town was raised by German destruction in 1944 and has been rebuilt since the War.  It is very colourful with its port, painted wooden houses and painted bikes all around town because of a significant bike race coming up.

Took the bus 35km to North Cape in quite clear skies and the drive is an absolute highlight. Initially around the fjord coast, then up the mountains and across the plateau with roaming reindeer herds, beautiful lakes and a different view around every corner. The Cape had a lot of visitors - buses, cars, motorbikes, push bikes and hikers and the sky was clear one minute, in mist the next. The views are spectacular from the top of the Cape as it rises an almost sheer 1000 ft from the ocean below.

We also enjoyed the visitor centre with its displays and Panorama theatre before the stunning drive back to Honningsvag.  15M from the bus I became aware that my camera was not with me - I had taken photos as we came back but I had not been able to put the camera back in its case attached to my belt because of the clothes being worn and Norwegian law that requires seat belts to be worn on buses. I thought that I had got it into a jacket pocket!!!!

Anyway, back onto the bus for a search (on the floor, in the overhead, between the seats) including with the driver - no luck and he was keen to get moving.  Left details at Tourist Information office and with bus company but nothing doing. Not looking good - but it had to be on that bus!!!  I cooled my heals with a visit to the town's Ice Bar for a couple of drinks and set myself to meet the bus on its next return journey - different driver, different bus!!!!  But he was an enthusiast, rang the bus depot and, when that produced no result, went back to the depot to search himself - and he turned it up, jammed between seats!!!!!  I shall be forever grateful to him.

Set sail back up around North Cape, which we slowly drifted below about 200M offshore before starting our journey south.  No darkness tonight.

Cruising the fjords

Sunday 10 August

Woke to a magic blue sky for a day of cruising a number of fjords as we start to head south.  The trip should have seen us pick up a pilot at Grotnes pilot station but due to load, priorities and "sickies", we were unable to secure one for the trip through the narrowest fjords today.

So a change of course to what we could do without a pilot when we turned around - including about an hour sitting less than 200M off Nord Fugloya (birds and narrow waterfalls).  Then through wider fjords that we could traverse without a pilot.

Cloudless blue sky all day and very relaxing with next ports of call presentation and another Windows 8.1 class (very informative).

Another formal dinner tonight.  It appears that Ted (ex of HP) was a Divisional MD rather than the big chief.  He is at least 77 (looks quite a bit older, travelling alone, wife does not like cruising) and he spent 16 days in Ireland before joining us. He seems to enjoy the company on our dinner table but needs to sneak out for a smoke each night.  Apart from drinking and smoking, he is a bit like Forbes and so far has lost his airline ticket home and at least two cigarette lighters - and changed his mind on one of the paintings he has bought.

Very good show last night with two latin america dancers - one Australian, the other a New Zealander.

Tromso

Friday 8 August

Out of the North Sea and back in to the fjords for an 8am arrival in Tromso.  Weather quite a bit cooler with misty rain as we berth, so we are fully kitted up to face it.  The city area of Tromso is on the island of Tromsoya and we shuttle bus in from the terminal.  Although there is a bridge, we go via a tunnel about 2km long, and in the middle of the tunnel is an intersection with a roundabout!  No rain in town at all, no wind and even some blue sky - so quite a bit of clothing becomes redundant.

Tromso is Norway's 7th largest city (about 70,000 people), dates to the ice age, and, for 38 days it was its capital while the Royal family was evacuated following the German occupation of Norway.  It has no full darkness at all from late April to mid-August and, conversely, from November to January, it is always in full darkness.

Quick email catch up in a library and then to Polaria for an arctic experience, including marine research, aquarium, seals and a great Panorama theatre for a breathtaking feature on the wildlife and fjords, and another on the Northern Lights (out of season for us).  Then a very good self guided tour over a 1940's sealing vessel, the M/S Polstjerna, which has been housed in town as a museum - and includes many other displays from the seal hunts, arctic transportation, polar expeditions and the Sami people.

A wander through town (found two entrepreneurial girls, about to enter year 9 selling their home made cakes and drinks in the main library - one with a cousin living in Melbourne).  Plenty of activity on the streets as Tromso is currently staging the 41st World Chess Olympiad and uniformed team members from all around the world were wandering.

Some very nice old wooden buildings, including Tromso Cathedral dating to mid 19th century.  Busy harbour with ferries and lots of hotels and restaurants.

Mid-afternoon departure for the North Cape with time in the Crows Nest and on our verandah as we cruise through the fjords and past tiny settlements and some fish farms.

South to Molde

Monday 11 August

Building up a blog backlog, but have not been able to post for some days.

For the first time it feels like we are on a ship, as we finally get a bit of a swell- but barely noticeable.  The Captain tells us that yesterday's weather was as good as it ever gets in northern Norway.  Today is similar, warmer at about 20C, but cloud in the sky, as we head south.  Norway fact - the country has 50,000 islands!!!!

Crossed back out of the Arctic Circle at 11am as we head south.  Restful day with plenty of reading, a couple more Windows 8.1 and photograpgy classes and, for one of us, an excellent walking effort on the Promenade Deck (the slim, attractive one).

Invitation to Mariners (Holland America's frequent cruisers program) champagne lunch with the Captain.  Special award to one traveller who reaches 1000 cruise days this trip!!!!!!  We bat on at 2 Star level, but received another tile.

The Rotterdam is a beautiful ship, best described as "elegant" and it seems to hold on to its crew, as we recognise quite a few from two years back.

Very interesting crowd on board, more than 800 from the Netherlands,  then probably about 350 Americans.   Interesting cohort among the Americans.  They all seem wealthy to mega wealthy and they have a common dislike for Obama - from mild dislike to outright hostility.

Trondheim

Wednesday 6 August

The weather closed in a little as we arrived in Trondheim, Norway's third largest city (population around 160,000 - growing to near 200,000 after university holidays) and, in the Viking age (until 1217) its capital. We docked with our cabin opposite Munkholmen, "The Monks Island",  Trondheim's execution ground in ancient times. No Hop On Hop Off bus or tourist train so it is all walking and we are about 1km to the edge of city centre before we start.

Walked up to anglican cathedral and on to Nidaros Cathedral (Norway's largest, and its national shrine) - built  in 1070 on the tomb of St Olav, and the most important landmark in Trondheim. Almost $14pp to get in - very impressive,  but $14 and no sermon!!!!

The grounds of the adjacent Archbishop's Palace housed a very good Army Museum (free entry) with excellent displays, including on WW1, Norway's wars with Sweden, and particularly Norway's invasion by the Nazis and its eventual retaking from them. This period of history was extremely divisive for the country with some 350,000 of the population supporting, or actively aligning with the Nazis, and much of the retaliation against the Nazis being initiated out of Sweden and the UK by fleeing Norwegian patriots supported by allied forces. The impact of this diviseness ultimately lead to Norway's neutral status subsequent to the Nazi occupation.

Walk around the Nidelva (river) - Trondheim's centre is a peninsular (almost an island), through some very impressive streets and then took a break in a modern shopping centre due to some rain.  As the rain continued, on to the library (very modern, 3 storey with great facilities, including a coffee shop) for email catch up and some conversation with two very pleasant young Norwegian mums doing the school holiday thing, before walk around the beautiful buildings along the waterfront and the pedestrianised CBD (including a mandatory supermarket inspection - blueberries were very cheap! !!!).  Much of Trondheim was also destroyed by fire, but unlike Alesund,  the rebuild was in wood.

Around 6km of walking, much on cobble stone streets and in drizzle, saw us back on board.

Excellent show tonight - English violin player (Claire Gobin -classically trained) playing all varieties of music from Vivaldi to the Beatles.

Alesund

Tuesday 5 August

Good and bad news to start the day! !! The good - another very pleasant day of weather as we docked in the centre of Alesund.  The bad - overnight sms' from CBA advising of 4 attempts on my credit card, totalling just on $5000 (it seems the smallest, of around $320, has got through).  So ........... cancelled card and dealing with Mastercard International re issue of emergency card (not so easy as we head toward arctic circle!!!!). May get through without one, so I will sit on it for a few days.

Off the ship and onto the Hop On Hop Off bus for a lap of town.  WiFi on board provided opportunity to publish blogs of last few days.

Alesund is beautiful town surrounded by water and islands.  While it has a long early history, its modern history derives from the establishment of its port in the early 19th century. It is the most important fishing harbour in Norway due to its central location and the discovery of oil in the North Sea in the 70's. Need to check this further,  but the suggestion is that if all Norway's North Sea oil and gas royalties were cashed out,  every Norwegian would be a millionaire.

After a full lap on the Hop On Hop Off bus we got off at the top of Mt Aksla which sits high above the town, and from which there are stunning views. Norway is very expensive - $6.50 for a serve yourself cappachino from a machine and then $2 for the toilet!!!  418 steps down to the town below (and they are about to close for a rebuild,  so it is fairly tough even going down).

Walked around the beautiful town harbour with colouful buildings - all brick in town centre and rebuilt in early 1900's following a fire which wiped out the town.  Building in wood is now only allowed outside a defined distance of the centre.

After lunch, a visit to the fishing museum to see what has been so much of this town's history, and the centre of so much innovation in fishing technology - from fishing boats, to netting and capture, and to processing.  Rolls Royce has a plant here expressly for the fishing industry.

Brilliant clear sky and flat sea as we departed,  Elton John tribute show after dinner and back to cabin - still some twilight at 10.30pm.

Flam

Monday 4 August

8am arrival in to Flam - 6 hours from the open sea and situated at the innermost part of the Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the 204 km long, and up to 1308M deep, Sognefjord.

Very pleasant small town with population of around 300 and a very nice harbour in the middle.  Clear weather, but a few clouds below the mountain tops and no need for a jumper.  Caught the Flam Railway to Myrdal about 20km and 900M above sea level.  Got stuck for an hour on the way up because the loco ahead broke down and no duplicated line to pass.

Eventually to Myrdal,  but once off the train you immediately lost your seat, so standing room only on the way back. Hop off on way down for a waterfall with maidens singing and plenty of mist, then (after a lunch time shower and 20 minutes of heavy rain) small town tourist train for a very enjoyable tour.  Flam was first settled by the Romans around the time of christ and was always isolated until the rail was built (20 years to build 20KM to Myrdal for link to Bergen).

Majestic cruising down the fjord from 6pm in very clear sky.  Only a little over 4 hours of darkness at this stage. Very enjoyable dinner and then an illusionist show to finish the day.

WiFi on shore dramatically overloaded and no hope of publishing earlier blogs.

At Sea - Into Norwegian Waters

Sunday 3 August

Only 4 on our table for dinner last night.  Beautiful food and saw out the music show with the HalCats.

Very smooth sea overnight and a good sleep.  Laps around the Promenade Deck for one of us, breakfast in bed for one of us, and the washing for one of us (score 3 points if you get all 3 correct!

More kids than normal - but we are in Europe holiday time.  Just as many oldies as usual - and of course plenty of wheelchairs and walking frames.  (I will see if I can collect any that are no longer needed for David Dippie and DIK as the cruise progresses.)

Absolutely beautiful weather day, plenty of sunshine, no wind and a flat sea. Two Windows 8.1 Classes, an info session on our first three ports and a good book have made for very relaxing day.

Three newbies on our table for dinner- us plus 5 americans (Nashville, Philadelphia, Texas & Idaho).  From what I can understand, older man travelling alone is ex CEO of Hewlett Packard (to be investigated further).  Finished the night with the show.

(Publishing to await a WiFi connection.)

Rotterdam & departing on the Rotterdam

Saturday 2 August

Pleasant night at Inntel Rotterdam Centre - darkness not till after 10.30pm.  Good hotel for our needs as very close to cruise terminal, good views, on water and good breakfast.

Quick wander down to Rotterdam market which is a huge and well spread outdoor affair - great seafood, fruit & vegetables and flowers. Then took the Metro to Delfshaven one of Rotterdam's oldest areas as it was not bombed during WWII - much of the rest of Rotterdam is very new and plenty of leading edge architecture.

Checked out after noon and took a taxi to cruise terminal (having a number of the tram lines out of action has negated quite a bit of our Rotterdam travel knowledge).  What would have been a quick 2 stop tram trip had to be replaced with the taxi -  not the water taxi or a 500m walk over Erasmus Bridge with cases in tow, neither of which would have suited one of us.

Check in was severely impacted by 2 computer crashes, so took almost 2 hours to embark.  The Dutch are not great at queueing, or tolerance.  Eventually all on board and 30 minute late departure.  Our compulsory emergency briefing station (life boat 8) had a poor result ie most non-attendees - judging by the age of many, it may be we "lost" them before check in!

Rotterdam is one of the world's largest ports, taking us nearly 3 hours to clear. Weather is fine as it has been all trip to date - just one day with a shower, and temperatures in the mid to high 20's.

Heading off to dinner on Table 65 - table of eight, new people to meet!!

To Rotterdam

Friday 1 August

Sorry to leave Tours and Hotel Mirabeau. Off to Tours station for the train trips ahead.  Tours is not a transit station for the TGV, so it is necessary to shuttle to St Pierre de Corp about 5 minutes away.  Shuttle packed with people and luggage, as is station - with many TGV trains travelling through.

On time into Paris Montparnasse after travelling through km after km of cropping - almost all harvested in the week since we arrived.  Taxi across Paris to Gare de Nord with a taxi driver who had been a donor for a personality transplant - perhaps not helped by my obviously unwelcome attempts to sit in the front passenger seat.

Within 2 minutes in Gare de Nord, confronted by 2 young "petition" scammers but quickly found the refuge of the Grand Voyageurs Lounge (a benefit of THALYS first class membership).  On time out of Paris and 3 course meal served within 10 minutes of departure - main course rabbit, plus red wine.  Stops only at Brussels and Antwerp before Rotterdam - and more food and drink between.  It is still amazing that you can cover 3 countries in the space of less than 3 hours on these great trains.

Problems when we got off however, with incorrect exit of rebuilt station leading me the wrong way and the need to backtrack for our tram to the hotel.  Having sold me the tickets, about 4 stops later the conductor said we would need to get off 2 stops short because of ongoing track work - in fact there are no trams running past us (normally 3 lines) and lots of closed roads - so it looks like a complicated but very short taxi ride to our berth tomorrow.

Good walk around Rotterdam, which has to be one of the world's most multi cultural, multi ethnic cities.  It was apparent two year's ago, and even more so today.

(Sorry, one wrong photo below - trying to find how to get rid of it!)

Azay-le-Rideau, Villandry & Amboise

Thursday 31 July

Our revised program hit a couple of hiccups due to train times & accessability (and the Tourist Information office thought we would struggle to fit either Chenin or Amboise in with Azay-le-Rideau & Villandry) - but with an 11 hour day we did.

We were easily able to handle the first two via an organised trip - it was just us and a very informative and customer focussed driver (Elsa) and both sites were relatively quiet.

The Chateau at Azay was a 1510 rebuild of an existing fortress undertaken by Gilles Berthelot,  Francois I's Notary, aided and abetted by embezzlement of the Kings wealth.  Berthelot eventually fled and Francois confiscated it in 1537.  Set on water and with attractive gardens it is now in the hands of the state. Azay-le-Rideau was a beautiful village.

Villandry is another chateau with links to Francois I, and is built on what was an old 12th century fortress.  Villandry is all about gardens - and what gardens they are!!!  Set out in a classic Renaissance, precisely and geometrically patterned, they are truly amazing - ornamental,  water,  sun, vegetable and herb gardens.

Back to Tours for a train to Amboise, where there are two notable chateaux - the Chateau Royal, where a medieval fortress made way for a royal residence during the reigns of Charles VIII and Francois I (him again) and the Chateau du Clos Luce, given to Leonardo da Vinci by Francois I - and where da Vinci lived the last 3 years of his life.  Of particular interest is the focus it has on da Vinci as an inventor - and what an inventor he was.  Everything from the life buoy, the parachute, cannons of varying capabilty, water pumps, water paddles etc, etc, etc - truly a remarkable man.  As well as the chateau featuring models of many of his inventions, quite a few feature in the gardens as play and try out equipment.

The town of Amboise has been the busiest and most touristy of all we have visited in the Loire Valley.

Back to Tours for another beautiful dinner at Au Chien Jaune, and guess what, they had caught that trimmed down duck from the other night - he was the main course tonight, along with a prawn & seafood salad and a dessert of stewed apricots and ice cream.  Beautiful!!!

Off to Rotterdam tomorrow.